Milan

Italy has always been up there with France as most exciting European places to visit pre-departure. All those years of high-school education - Classical studies, Latin, Ancient History, Religion. All of this has instilled in me a desire to see what's become of the once greatest ancient Empire of all time. I'm excited for Rome, The Eternal City. Home also to the oldest organisation comprised of humans in the world, the Catholic Church. I'm curious to see how close modern Italy comes to my expectations. I'm so excited.

For such a short stay it's vital to watch out for stereotypes.

• Our hotel had a beautiful view overlooking the typical Italian street that was Via Copernico. I found the most exciting gelato place nearby. After counting 80 different flavours of gelato, I ordered the Donatella one without even asking for a sample because the name sold itself and it looked like it was somehow derived from chocolate…
• Cars are small and many are two-seaters. Not very family-oriented and not something I particularly admire because personally I call it a 'selfish' car. I don't think I'd be friends with anyone who owns one of those – well at least until I get my own driver's license.
• On a quiet street it somehow seemed necessary for a lone car on the road to skid past and zoom at the corner past the pedestrian crossing, because that's how he rolled. 
• Hand gestures are not that universal. This is not a body language I am familiar with and the polizia can frequently be found doing some of these whilst killing time chatting on their mobile phones. I think they’re talking about how he likes his lasagna. I did see a guy put up his middle finger at the skidding guy -now there's a language I understand.
• I also don't know if cars come with built-in wolf-whistles. 

The next day I stuffed myself as usual with the included buffet breakfast - the stand out being the amazing cafe latte that I just got from the machine! We walked to the city centre, and of course went to see the beautiful Duomo. One of the oldest in the world. The funniest thing happened and we tried to get in at two different entrances, denied each time for "inappropriate dress" -Anna's shorts, and my sleeveless top. I actually was sort of angry because I’d thought I was pretty modest, given that the straps covered most of my shoulders. I'm really going to have to re-think my modesty standards though, probably with a bit more humility. It's funny because in my experience, if you asked security guards for anything in English, they literally just give you a pretty scary "wtf" face. Like why-do-you-even-bother face. Haha I can't even describe it in words. Nevertheless we went to the nearest Zara and had another excuse to go shopping.

From there we did a walking route for the ancient landmarks of the city. Unfortunately, it was a Lunedi and for the most part, were all closed, which was such a disappointment for our only full day in the city, but we continued despite the heat. Something that was open was the Basilica of St Ambrose, and that was fantastic. I tried to make out some of the Latin in the walls and discovered I'd gone rusty. But one of my favourite things about all these European cathedrals is the fact that a lot of them have crypts. This one was located behind the altar and housed the body of St Ambrose, one of the early Church fathers, laying in between by two martyrs to the faith. The Duomo had some corpses (though masked) as well, flanking the wings of the church, and I just had to note the beautiful Italian leather shoes they had on…

There was also a Leonardo da Vinci exhibition showing at the Piazza della Scala, "Il Mondo di Leonardo" that was on which I reallyy wanted to go to. He’s such an intriguing personality to me. The artist and the inventor! It would feature hundreds of 3D reconstructions, working models of his machines and digitalised restorations of his paintings. Anna wasn't as keen though… Fair enough. I tell myself I will be back.

We finished off the day with dinner overlooking the Duomo, watching people as I ate my delicious dinner of cheesy gnocchi. The Russian dude next to us seemed to be the most annoying customer ever and I wanted to slap him in the face. So needy! So rich! So racist to the Indian waiter! He had his chauffeur and deluxe shopping bags, all topped off with a younger, very busty wife (mistress?). I've picked up  snippets of Tagalog as I walk the streets. There are actually lots of Filipinos here! Residents and tourists, which I hadn't seen much of at all during my stay in Europe. Feeling patriotic and right at home haha.

Uh-oh. There it goes again. The transit officer just gave me the wtf face as he checked my ticket. Tsk tsk. Hand gesture. Chatting to nearby passenger for interpretation. Apparently we're on the wrong train to Rome! The tattooed man from before must have been saying I was on his seat but no hablo italiano... Our ticket was apparently for an express service, and we will be here 5 hours longer than expected! NOOOOOO I don't want a long journey this time… There's already so much we have to do and five days is not enough as it is!!!! We have to wait. Patience. It's part of the whole traveling game I guess. Oh by the way I'd discovered I'd lost a credit card this morning... Ha I'm so bad at this.

Leaving Zermatt

Back in the day, I was one of those kids whose hearts completely broke when their teacher told them clouds were actually composed of gaseous water particles. Don't even dream about being able to sit on them. Cumulus clouds are not the same as floating cotton balls.

Well these past two days we've been at the clouds. I climbed my tallest mountain ever, Mt Schwarzsee, 2588m above sea level! What's on top of a mountain? In our case, you couldn't see much at all. Just cold, white misty cloud everywhere. A dark lake, who knows how deep. Why do people wish for wings to reach the heavens when we've already been given legs? It really is the most exhilarating feeling ever, and I feel like it's an achievement that I deserve some kind of sticker for, more than those primary school ones I got for "being the good girl" or whatever in class (not that I got many of those either)...The gradients were some of the steepest ever; the loose rocks challenging. My legs are more muscular. I laugh when I think about what I used to call my "Basser step calves". I've lost a lot of weight as well, which is really no good. Ribs sticking out in photos. Backpack harness doesn't fit snugly around my waist anymore, with at least three fingers of room. 

That's what happens when you're in Switzerland paying $75AUD per freaking night and don't have enough to budget for food! Ugh I'm so angry that I didn't have enough motivation to help book these hotels. I've been eating two meals a day - the included buffet breakfast, and my lunchy dinner... The latter is usually composed of: 1) a small portion of my 400g of the cheapest Swiss chocolate (my luxury item); 2) a piece of fruit; and 3) a thickly-sliced cold-cut sandwich of salami or bacon, Swiss cheese, and tomato that I make myself during breakfast, and sneakily put in my daypack as provisions for later, under the disapproving eyes of Anna. I like to think of it as an "extended breakfast" and therefore maintain that it's completely ethical.

I've told Anna she's making me a really bad backpacker and I was doing so well being one until she came along. We've even done a post-hike hot tub night, which is such a backpacker no-no, but I needed to make it feel like the $75/night needed to be worth it. Besides, when you're hiking with our kind of equipment (or lack thereof) and my crappy shoes, you're bound to succumb. I think my Vans shoes are actually rly rly intimidating to others to be honest. I really think all the hikers look at me and think: "Like omg she's so pro she doesn't even need hiking poles. She can obviously afford them but she's chosen to leave them at home out of her own free will. She probably gave it to some needy comrade." With my shoes they're thinking: "Wow she can actually hike in those - like who needs these $200 high-tech, perfectly-moulded-for-your-feet ones I have..." Really - that's actually what they're thinking.

Yesterday on our fourth day, Anna had had enough of hiking and decided she wanted to cable-car it up to Gornergrat, which is a beautiful snowy mountain which gives great views of the famous Matterhorn mountain. Problem was that it was about $96 AUD return! Helllll no. Instead I found a good hiking trail to Riffelalp which would also get you a pretty sweet view of the Matterhorn, but for free. Why not? I had all day, the weather was absolutely beautiful. The views were amazing all the way through the hike and peaked (excuse the pun) right at the top. I'd always wanted to hike by myself, and I did pretty well! I stayed up there a fair bit till it got cold and the conversation I was eavesdropping on between initial strangers, a Japanese guy and a Swiss guy, came to an end. The second guy currently lives in Geneva. He comes out here every weekend to ski. He's Protestant but he got married in the Catholic chapel he pointed out yonder because he's "accepting of the faith".

My view of the Matterhorn, from Riffelalp

On my bucket list is to one day mountain bike it up and down. It's something I have neither the skill nor the guts to do at the moment, but I've come across a lot of brave mortals doing it out here and it looks like a lot of fun. Finished the day with a trip to the graveyard. It was the most beautiful graveyard I'd ever seen, and was supposed to be a tribute to some awesome mountaineers that died doing their thing (did you read that as "thaaang"?). Every single grave had vibrantly coloured flowers with some elaborately accessorised with pretty windmills and the like. I was slightly disappointed because I'd semi-expected some tragic/inspiring stories to be written on their gravestones but there was nothing of the sort. It was stupid of me to romanticise their life stories through my imaginative expectations anyway. Death is always tragic yes, but inevitable, so nevertheless I think it's kind of beautiful that they died doing something they love. 

I'm so glad that we've been here to experience the varying weather conditions -sunny, cloudy, rainy... All were wonderful and you could really appreciate the Swiss Alps from all the weather conditions that nature felt like decorating it with that day. Now on the train to my next great adventure: Italy! Don't know where Anna is. Seat next to me is empty because we're moody bitches. Thinking I'm in the wrong carriage too… Looks too comfortable. Why is there a reading light above me? I think I'm in first-class and the transit officer will murder me with Italian hand gestures. I've got a game plan though. When in doubt, say "que".

I'm on top of the World

Went hiking again today! It rained again all morning so we had to wait until that finished, but afterwards we trekked up boulders and the wet alps and thin bridges, reaching points of over 2000 metres, which I think might be among the highest points I've ever reached in my lifetime so far. I liked the feeling of being in the sky/"heavens". We were pretty much on the same level as the clouds, seeing eye to eye with some great mountain points.

It's good to take it in, but don't tell me you won't look down. How else will you see how far you've come? It's such a marvellous sight.

Day hike

This region is full of tourists. The "doing" sort. The ones here to hike, and not the groups that will bomb all your landscape photos by their mere presence, or the sort that is out to get piss drunk. I love seeing old couples up here, from all over Europe and beyond. The ones that haven't lost their youthful energy. I love the athletic, good looking young people. Everyone is so friendly up the trails as well, there's almost a standard compulsory greeting or occasional nod that every hiker is expected to give to the passerby.

We spent the day hiking up the Swiss Alps across to one of the nearby little towns, Furri, though it rained quite heavily from midday as was forecasted for today and tomorrow. It was great to experience some cooler weather after all these weeks. Didn't take away from its beauty nonetheless.

Train Travel

Yesterday afternoon we took the eight-hour train ride via Geneva to Zermatt, Switzerland. I've found that I really love long journeys, especially when they're scenic rides. Especially after you've explored whole cities, and have a little bit of stimuli to reflect over. 

Au Revoir Lyon

Swiss Alps tomorrow. 

Semantics of unhappiness

"There is something to be said here about the word "depression," which has almost entirely eliminated the word and even the concept of unhappiness from modern life. Of the thousands of patients I have seen, only two or three have ever claimed to be unhappy: all the rest have said that they were depressed. This semantic shift is deeply significant, for it implies that dissatisfaction with life is itself pathological, a medical condition, which it is the responsibility of the doctor to alleviate by medical means. Everyone has a right to health; depression is unhealthy; therefore everyone has a right to be happy (the opposite of being depressed). This idea in turn implies that one's state of mind, or one's mood, is or should be independent of the way that one lives one's life, a belief that must deprive human existence of all meaning, radically disconnecting reward from conduct. A ridiculous pas de deux between doctor and patient ensues: the patient pretends to be ill, and the doctor pretends to cure him. In the process, the patient is willfully blinded to the conduct that inevitably causes his misery in the first place"

- Theodore Dalrymple (The Frivolity of Evil)